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Danger! Foxtails

Posted on July 27, 2024July 27, 2024 by H.A. Byrd

Most of us don’t need another thing to worry about, but here is something dog owners must know: Foxtail grass is dangerous.

Sharp spear-tip ends on the foxtail seed spikelets allow them to enter any orifice on a pet’s body. Once they penetrate the skin, feather-like projections facilitate movement underneath, making them difficult to locate and, like a fish hook, tough to remove. These little seed cases are often not easy to see.

This type of grass thrives during spring and early summer. When the grass dries out, it detaches from the part it once grew from and that is when it is a real danger. Passing animals (including humans) make an ideal way for the seeds to spread, as they cling fiendishly to clothing or fur.

The seed spikes can enter any facial opening, they are also found between the toes and in the anus or genitalia. They can work their way through thick fur. Really nasty, nasty little buggers– besides great discomfort, they can cause severe infections, deformation, and sometimes, death. One of the more significant dangers is if they get inhaled into the respiratory system. They can also be ingested by dogs who eat grass or lick the seed from their coat. Don’t hesitate to get immediate veterinary care if you suspect a foxtail issue.

Symptoms: If you discover unexplained swelling anywhere on your animal, or blood or pus discharge from any area; excessive sneezing; pawing at the snout, eyes, or ears; any of these can be danger signs. Also, watch for repeated licking or chewing or unexplained limping. Signs of infection can be lethargy and loss of appetite.

Cats, dogs, and livestock are all susceptible to injury from foxtail grasses. My parents had a cat, Tommy, who lived for nearly twenty years with a severely deformed nose because of a foxtail he inhaled as a young kitty. Check any animal’s coat and feet during foxtail season if they have been outdoors in an area that might have this dangerous weed.

Foxtail is an invasive weed that occurs in the western states but is found more and more often nationwide. We find three species of foxtail grass in the Pacific Northwest: yellow foxtail, green foxtail, and bristly foxtail. There are over 100 species in the setaria genus of grasses and they all have bristly spikelets. The entire group are refereed to as foxtail or bristle grasses. These three species are the ones we are on guard for in the Puget Sound area, but any bristle grass we come upon wherever we roam can cause problems for our pets.

What to do? If your dog has signs of foxtail penetration or you see embedded spikelets, take them to the vet immediately. Removal is difficult and requires special tools. Also home removal increases risk of infection.

If you have foxtail grass on your property: You will probably find that cutting or mowing before they go to seed doesn’t help—they will likely just form seed heads closer to the ground. Pulling them out is the best treatment. If this is impractical due to size of the infestation, another solution may be to plant a quick and close-growing ground cover to crowd them out. Water deeply but infrequently: over-watering encourages foxtail growth.

To our great fortune, although they are found all along the coast, we don’t have a particularly huge amount of these grasses in the Puget Sound area–yet. We do have them right here in downtown Arlington WA, though! It seems similar to the tick situation, a growing threat which may become more and more of a nuisance and danger in our lives. If you see these grasses growing in your neighborhood, please pull them up or alert someone who can eradicate them. Also, carefully check your dog after playing in a grassy field or walking anywhere they may encounter these seed spikelets. We all need to have eagle eyes going forward.

Selected Sources:

blogs.cornell.edu/weedid/foxtails
hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/fact-sheet/weeds-foxtail-green-yellow-bristly-setaria-spp/
beta.floranorthamerica.org/Setaria
coastviewvet.com/fighting-foxtails-keeping-your-pet-safe-this-foxtail-season
seattledogspot.com/foxtail-grass

_{Foxtail image: MabelAmber on pixabay}

Dog Shoes

Posted on July 18, 2024July 18, 2024 by H.A. Byrd

Dog shoes and boots are great for protecting dogs in the snow and ice. They are also good for summer heat. But please read on:

While dog shoes are a great answer for some pets, they are not without their problems. Many dogs won’t tolerate them–but as the shoes are often not particularly expensive, it may be worth getting a set just to find out. Some of these dogs can learn to accept them over time.

Just like human shoes, dog boots can rub or be too tight in some spot. Dog paws come in a variety of shapes, so size of shoe isn’t the only factor. Consider also if it’s going to be a problem if they get wet. Shoes come off and get lost, especially in snow and with certain breeds. Suspenders that run across the dog’s back can be a solution. One of the main issues about shoes, though, is ventilation.

Dogs regulate their body temperature through the paws. They have sweat glands in their paws. Also, arteries run behind the paw pads, circulating the blood back through the body to help control the temperature. Shoes designed for summer use have holes or mesh for air flow.

I do not necessarily recommend this particular brand, only that you keep ventilation and “breathe-ability” in mind while selecting shoes. (Brand shown: AOFITEE)

In my opinion, (okay, as a paw wax maker, I admit it) if pavement is so hot that it requires shoes rather than paw wax, (see my recent post Paws and Think About Hot Pavement) the danger of sun stroke should be carefully considered. In other words, if paw wax isn’t sufficient, should the dog be out there anyway?

I use shoes for dogs only if we are in snow or are protecting an injury such as an incision. For some people’s dogs, though, shoes seem to be a great choice for walking on summer pavement. Of course, I can’t help but mention that paw wax can be helpful with some of the shoe issues, such as rubbing or to prevent the ice balls that may form around the top of the shoe. (For that latter problem, I have also had good results with duct tape around the top of the boot.)

In the end, we each know our own dogs and what will serve them best. I do hope this information is helpful if you’ve been wondering about dog shoes. If I’ve left something out or you have anything you’d like to say, please contact me. I’d love to hear from you!

Note: Yellow boots image is by Yaroslav Shuraev VIA pexels.com. The puppy sitting between a pair of boots is by Mona on the same site. Normally I use my own images, but I couldn’t find the ones I have of Pippa in shoes and didn’t want to put them on her to take a new photo.

PS Of course the dog photos here are just for humor. I’m not suggesting using human shoes on dogs! : )

Paws and Think About Hot Pavement

Posted on July 11, 2024July 13, 2024 by H.A. Byrd

What do we need to know about walking dogs on hot surfaces? What are the dangers for their paw pads? The following is what I have learned through years of experience as a dog walker and through my own research. In some ways this is a complicated subject with a lot of misinformation spread through social media. Ultimately, however, it’s all quite simple.

There are many factors involved. Here are some points regarding a dog’s tolerance for that walking surface in question:

Puppies have more tender pads
Couch potato dogs haven’t built up tolerance
Genetics and breed can affect sensitivity
Size and weight of dog affect resilience
Health issues of dog can influence risk of burns
Surfaces matter. eg: Fresh black asphalt vs concrete in the shade
Arid conditions increase risk (the PNW is not arid)
Length of time sun has been shining steadily on surface
Lack of breeze increases danger
Cloud cover makes a difference
So does time of day
Standing has more risk than walking

Charts which give air temperature and an associated pavement temperature have been flooding the internet for a few years now. The problem is, few of these charts list sources. Most of them actually hearken back to a Dr. James Beren’s work on thermal contact burns published in 1970 in the Journal of the American Medical Association. Dr Beren stated that his statistics referred to a particular scenario. He stated that an air temperature of 77 degrees can, under certain conditions, result in an asphalt surface reaching up to 125 degrees. (Do remember that hot bathwater can be 110 degrees. Still, standing on 125 degree pavement can potentially damage paw pads.)

Modern experts agree that caution should be applied when temperatures enter the mid-eighties. Certainly, the above factors should also be kept in mind. Things can get very serious for any dog as the temperature continues to climb.

In Arlington, WA I have measured asphalt temperature on a clear, 80 degree F day to find it climb to 124 degrees by 2:30 and 123 degrees at 4:30. The cement sidewalk read at 100 degrees. When the temperature enters the 80s, I select shaded routes for my dogs.

As climate change affects our lives, we in the Pacific Northwest need to be aware that on days the temperatures rise to over 100 degrees, we may need to walk our pets in the early morning and late evening only.

Human skin is much more tender than a dog’s paw pad, (would you play in the snow barefoot for the amount of time most dogs would? Or without mittens?) The fat tissue in the paws also offers protection.

Although dog paws are not comparable to our own feet, this doesn’t mean they are impervious to damage. They toughen with use, but no dog is beyond getting burned if a surface is hot enough, be it pavement in town or alpine granite. It’s always important to keep the pads healthy and supple.

Dog paws have arteries which run close to their paw pads, allowing the blood to circulate back into the body and help keep the dog at a stable temperature. The inner layer of the paw has sweat glands which help the dog cool off. These regulatory functions make it even more important to protect your dog’s paws. Also, I recommend choosing the vented or the “breathable” dog shoes if you use shoes.

If your dog begins limping or walking tenderly, watch out! If their paw pads look dark, or the dog is licking them or biting them, they may already be burned. Also check for blisters or redness.

simply test the pavement temperature

A) You may have heard of the “seven-second test” in which you place the back of your hand on the pavement and if you can hold it there for seven seconds it will be safe for your dog to walk on this surface. The point was to make it simple, but these days some say two minutes and you can believe this version of the rule if you want.

Of course you must also use your common sense here. For one thing, people vary with the amount of heat they can tolerate. I can pick up a jar full of hot coffee that my husband can’t handle without a hot pad. I can hold it just long enough to pour a couple of coffees. One of my sons, meanwhile, could carry it around without giving it a second thought.

B) Infrared thermometers are available, starting around twenty dollars, which you can point at the road surface and get an instant reading. If you have a particularly vulnerable dog this might be a good investment.

When it’s hot out, choose shady routes and walk on grass or dirt whenever possible. This is also important for preventing heat stroke.

Where I live there are parking strips of grass along most of the sidewalks. This makes it easy for the dog to have their choice of walking surface. Usually, if a dog has a choice they will walk where it is comfortable for them to do so. However, factors such as physiological conditions or strong force of habit can come into play. Ultimately, it is the human caretaker who is responsible for the protection of the paws.

To keep your dog safe, it’s merely a matter of situational awareness and common sense.

~ ~ ~ ~

Selected Sources:

https://archive.news.wsu.edu/press-release/2017/07/06/protect-pets-feet-from-heat/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/5536473/

Click to access reducing_urban_heat_islands_ch_5.pdf

https://www.scrippsnews.com/science-and-tech/animals-and-insects/how-to-walk-your-dog-when-the-pavement-is-hot

https://www.ellevetsciences.com/pet-care/hot-pavement-preventing-and-treating-pad-burn-in-dogs/

Please note: This blog post is based on my own research. If you find an error or can offer information from primary sources concerning this subject I would appreciate it if you’d contact me.

How Pippa Started a Business

Posted on February 17, 2024March 11, 2024 by H.A. Byrd

Feb 16, 2024

On a recent trip to the beach, my family’s German Shepherd dog Pippa cut her paw pad on some glass. It was pretty awful. Although not a deep cut, it did bleed enough to leave a trail of blood splotched all around on the stones.

We gave her first aid, and brought her home where she spent a week indoors with her foot bandaged. Pippa spent these days in dramatic sadness, unable to go for a proper walk and feeling the weight of the world upon her shoulders.

I looked online for some dog shoes for her to wear so she could go out for walks while her cut still healed. I bought a set, and she wore the front pair, galumphing around the neighborhood and sounding like a horse as she clip-clopped down the street. But the shoes worked pretty well.

What happened, though, as I was shopping for those shoes, is that I ran across something called paw wax. This is a mixture that is rubbed on paw pads to moisturize and protect. Here was something Pippa could really use. She goes hiking in the alpine areas a lot and her pads become dry and slightly cracked from walking on the granite. We’ve also had trouble in the past with ice balls building up inside the tops of her booties.

Well, through a great deal of research and experimentation, I’ve become a minor expert on paw waxes. And, I’ve gone into business. It’s impressive how well a good wax works. I realized that paw balm and wax would be a great thing to sell along with my books at fairs. I found sources for organic, fair trade, and sustainable ingredients. I perfected several recipes, each with a particular emphasis.

I’m almost ready to launch my online store. See my balms now on my paw wax page. It should all be up in early March 2024. ~~~~~The Paw Wax portion of Pupwalkies will have detailed information about paw balms and waxes and about my own waxes and their ingredients.

Update 3/10/24: My store is open! Please check out k9wax.com.

Collars & Things

Posted on April 5, 2018June 27, 2018 by H.A. Byrd

Daisy

As a dog walker, I find that many of my customers have their dogs in collars which are too loose. Please! Follow the two-finger rule. You should be able to fit two fingers between your dog’s neck and the collar. No more.

People don’t want their dog to be uncomfortable, and I certainly understand this, but a dog who suddenly slips backward out of the collar, and bolts away in confused excitement, only to be hit by a car- well, it’s just not worth the risk. I use a martingale on most of the dogs I walk, for the dog’s comfort and for my piece of mind.

If you like a loose collar, buy a martingale type. This can be loose on the dog’s neck, but operates like a choke collar if suddenly pulled. The nylon web will not stay tight, as a chain choke collar often will. I love martingale collars on any dog who might be a flight risk!

Halti type collars (similar to horse halters) are nice for large dogs who are difficult to control. Training is a much better idea, however! I recommend professional trainers- they will make an amazing difference for your dog. A halti (or one of those special harnesses) will keep your dog from pulling while it is wearing the halti (or harness). Generally, it won’t teach the dog not to pull when the dog is not wearing the equipment. (Hint: if the dog gets excited, be sure to hold the leash up high in the air, or the dog will probably get the halti off. Then you only have them by the safety strap, which is surely not great considering the situation you are most likely in!)

To teach a dog not to pull, here is what to do:

As soon as the dog pulls the leash tight, stop and (gently) turn the dog around to face you. Say a command such as “Don’t pull.” I use a downward gesture with my left hand also. Dogs respond well to gestures. Wait for a minute, and then calmly proceed. Never walk a dog in training when you have to be somewhere by a certain time!

If you have a medium – to -large dog who wants to pull, I recommend the following:

After three times of having to stop the dog, I put the leash under a front leg. This works very much like the halti or a no-pull harness would. The dog feels the leash against the chest, and doesn’t want to pull. More effective with some dogs than others, it is certainly worth a try. An advantage this has is that you can train the dog with the normal leash until the third strike, so to speak. Using this method keeps you from having to stop every few minutes all the way home. It works on small dogs also but may be more difficult to keep the leash under the leg.

I like harnesses on small dogs. They give me a sense of security.

Why UW’s Dubs is a Malamute

Posted on July 1, 2017July 3, 2017 by H.A. Byrd

Dawg — The University of Washington Husky

The live mascot named Dubs has been a symbol of UW since February of 2009. Born at a kennel just to the north of us in Burlington, Dubs is actually an Alaskan malamute. The live Husky mascot at the University of Washington has traditionally been a malamute since the Husky mascot appeared thirteen doggie generations ago.

The University’s stance is that malamutes are a large type of husky and they chose to use the breed because it is the largest and strongest of the huskies. My guess is that also malamute was chosen over husky because malamutes tend to have a calmer disposition and are easier to control in large crowds. Huskies are generally more social but malamutes usually are calmer dogs.

Technically, the malamute and the husky, while both sled dogs of the north, are different breeds. Huskies are bred for speed and malamutes are bred for strength and endurance. According to Jennifer McBride, however, who cares for Dubs, the generic term “husky,” as opposed to “Siberian husky,” can be used for any northern breed of dog that pulls a sled. Between that and the fact that any supporter of the University of Washington is a “Husky,” Dubs can truly be considered a Husky.

Reindeer Herding Dogs of Lappland

Posted on June 18, 2017June 19, 2017 by H.A. Byrd

I was fortunate to spend some time living in the far north of Sweden, in the land of the Sami people.

In that part of the world the reindeer run free in the forests and mountains and the reindeer dogs are used to herd them.

The Swedish Lapphund is a spitz breed, on the small side of medium size. As companions to the Sami people, the dogs have been indigenous to the area for thousands of years.

These dogs have a thick double coat with dark coloring which makes them stand out against the snow and their high voices can be heard for a long distance. The Sami people also have a high tinge to their voices and traditionally wear brightly accented dark colors for the same reason.

x30KhikeWeAreInsideTheKota The herders have a way of communicating with their dogs by shouting a single tone and oscillating their hand in front of their mouth. This creates a sound which the dog can recognize as unique to their master. There are also special commands used, a “dog language” as part of the Sami language.

These dogs are a part of the family but they are not pets. They are intelligent animals who make a lot of their own decisions as they work the reindeer.

xBenohMannesReindeerHerdDog

The Sami families who have reindeer lead lives that are tuned in to the rhythms of nature in a remote and spirited part of the world. They work hard and long in a rugged outdoors. They have an ancient traditions which give them an understanding of, and deep love for, the harsh environment in which they live.

There are three dog breeds that are historically considered Sami reindeer herding dogs. In addition to the Swedish Lapphund there are also the Laponian Herder and the Finnish Lapphund. These three originated from the original Laponian dog.

xBenohDrivesScooter

The above photo of Benno waiting on a snow scooter was taken at noon on one of the winter days when the sun never cleared the horizon and there were only a couple of hours of light. The environment in the north is cold and demanding but the dogs are happy because they are made for living in such a place. They enjoy having a job to do. These dogs need to be able to run, and although they bark a lot as part of their job when working with the reindeer they are quiet and well-mannered in the home.

This is how I crossed Norway and Sweden into Finland, on a reindeer drive. Yes, it was extremely bumpy! Part of my job was to hang on to the little yellow dog so he didn’t fall from the sledge.

I helped to herd the reindeer by using skis and also by driving a snow scooter. But when I tried to ride behind someone else on a scooter I twice caused scooters to flip! Nobody wanted me to ride with them. : )

xBenohYouGetOffMyBed

“Hey, you! Off the bed!”

Is Your Lawn Poisoning Your Dog?

Posted on June 18, 2017August 29, 2017 by H.A. Byrd

Yes, it is quite possible the chemicals in your lawn are harming your dog. There have been tests done that have linked certain lawn chemicals to cancer in dogs. This is a subject that requires more scientific research because much is unknown. In the meantime, it is wise to read labels and check that the chemicals you use are labeled “pet safe”.

If your dog has regular access to a lawn there is a good chance that he or she lays on it, rolls on it and chews the grass. Residue which clings to the fur will likely be licked off. The dog is more exposed to the lawn treatments than you are. Whatever is clinging to your pet will be tracked into your home and especially to the area where the animal sleeps. As there is no sunshine or rain inside your home to help break pesticide down it can remain in your carpet for years. Of course if your dog is an outdoor dog there may be considerable exposure to chemicals.

If you choose to use pesticides, be selective about which type you use and follow the directions carefully. The label will probably recommend you keep your pets off your lawn for a couple of days. It might not be a bad idea to bathe your pet often for a while. There may be a higher risk of illness for your dog if you use pesticide products on your lawn.

If you use fertilizers be careful about adding bone meal, say, and feeding your roses because dogs love bone meal and will likely dig down to get at it, consuming the fertilizer also. Be very careful your dog doesn’t have access to an open bag of any fertilizer.

It is possible to have a beautiful yard without the use of products which could harm your pets. Depending on where you live and what sort of soil you have, it could be partly a question of settling for less green in your lawn or perhaps planting a ground cover of another sort in some areas of your property.

Vinegar (use a garden sprayer) works well as a weed killer in gravel areas but it will kill grass also. Spray it when there won’t be rain for at least four days. It works well but must be reapplied, especially in rainy areas.

It’s a good idea to do some research and learn about the potential dangers of the various chemicals you might wish to use. Some organic products can cause irritation to the digestive tract if ingested. There is a certain amount of controversy about the safety of some of the products which are commonly used. It is difficult to determine what might be causing unseen internal damage and there are people who swear that lawn chemicals gave their dogs cancer.

Also consider that your public park, RV park, or athletic field may be treated with pesticides known to be toxic to your dog.

Your Protective Dog and Those Who Require Access to Your Home

Posted on June 18, 2017August 6, 2017 by H.A. Byrd

I’m planning a new dog fence, and this has brought a subject to mind:

Keeping Uniformed Visitors Safe From Your Dog

It’s not safe to assume that your dog would never bite anyone. It may be unlikely, but just about any dog will react aggressively if somehow it does feel threatened. Also, you may not know what your dog is like when you are not there.

Years ago I had one of the most social, lovable dogs in the world, a dog who I thought was a terrible watchdog. Once when I was home alone he looked out the window and growled softly but he didn’t bark. For an hour. What ever he was looking at, at the time I truly wanted him to bark! But he was everybody’s friend, not a protector type of guy. Or so I thought. Then one day a friend told me that he had come by to drop off a forgotten jacket as a favor. He told me that, finding I wasn’t home, he opened up the front door of my little cabin to reach inside and toss the jacket onto a chair, but “Alako nearly took my arm off!” I was shocked to hear this. My friend wasn’t actually hurt, just scared by my dog, but I could hardly imagine Alako being so protective! The experience taught me how little I knew.

It’s just a natural thing for a dog to protect his or her territory. The safest thing is to assume that your dog would bite an intruder and go from there.

Emergency personnel are among the rare people in uniform who may come to your home and not be “successfully scared away” on a regular basis by your dog. When the mail carrier or meter reader comes and quickly leaves again, your dog may feel responsible for the departure. But when a medic comes in to examine you, this is a very different and potentially stressful situation for your pet. It’s confusing. Are these people harming you? Your dog doesn’t know.

The safest bet is to close your dog in another room or otherwise secure them, if possible, before emergency services arrive at your home.

When planning for a first dog or new dog enclosure, don’t forget to keep your postal carrier and PUD meter reader in mind. The meter reader will need you to keep your dog confined and away from the meter during a pre-arranged several day window. If you can keep your dog fence enclosure away from your mailbox and your PUD meter, you are ahead of the game.